If you missed my previous post, make sure to have a read of Part 1, where I documented my time exploring Negombo, Colombo, Sigiriya, Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and arriving into Ella via the local scenic train. I was lucky enough to spend three and a half weeks exploring Sri Lanka earlier this year, and my journey now continues on to the southern part of this beautiful island. Grab a brew and get comfy!

We spent a chilled morning exploring Ella, browsing the shops and enjoying some iced teas and coffees while swapping stories. Our G Adventures tour group consisted of 15 lovely people from the UK, America, Canada, Australia, Germany and Switzerland. Everyone was well travelled and I loved hearing about the amazing and unusual places people had visited. We followed a short nature trail to the Nine Arch Bridge, which looks very striking amongst all the greenery. It was only built with stone and cement – no steel reinforcements. We walked across it and watched two local trains and one tourist train go by. Then we hiked up Little Adam’s Peak (not so little!) and soaked up the beautiful views of the hills (I’d recommend doing this earlier in the day when it’s cooler).

Nine Arch Bridge, Ella

Little Adam’s Peak, Ella

After stopping by a beautiful waterfall on our way out of Ella, we ventured out on a safari at Yala National Park! We saw a huge variety of animals – sambal deer, elephants, monitor lizards, wild boar, purple faced langers (monkeys), storks, hornbills, kingfishers and lots of other birds. I was glad we’d asked the jeep drivers to take us to the quieter Galge entrance and stay away from the crowds – we still saw plenty of wildlife (excluding the elusive leopard which would be a very rare sighting, though I like to think one may have been watching us at some point!). Our accommodation was the lovely Big Game Camp Yala, and we could see purple faced langers jumping across the trees while eating our breakfast outside! In view of portraying my trip honestly, I sadly experienced quite an upset stomach along with a few others in my group (not from the Big Game Camp) and it was a few days of crackers, toast and rehydration sachets for me. This is definitely a risk when travelling to a less developed country, especially if you’re visiting for a longer time period, no matter how many precautions you take.

Yala National Park safari

Yala National Park safari

We then travelled from Yala to Mirissa on the south coast of the island. We spent a day exploring Galle, visiting the old Dutch fort, the lighthouse, and browsing the lovely shops. I purchased a small wooden dish made from coconut tree bark and a postcard. We were nearing the end of our group tour, and it was lovely to relax on the beach and by the pool with the others after such a busy itinerary for the past two weeks. The sound of the local bakery tuk-tuks playing Beethoven’s ‘Für Elise’ to announce their presence was unexpected! On our final day we went whale watching, and spotted dolphins, turtles and a fin whale. We saw the side of the whale a few times and also a water spout! I was glad the boat kept a reasonable distance from the whale. It was hard to get an idea of the scale of the creature, so I’d love to go whale watching again somewhere else.

Galle

Mirissa

After a final dinner and breakfast with the group (and a final bit of pool time!) I bid farewell to my new friends and checked into the Celestial Inn in Mirissa which had a lovely garden. My plan for the next week was to slow down a bit, soak up the beautiful scenery and beaches, and enjoy yoga, sketching and reading. I had a lovely deep tissue massage at the tranquil Secret Root Spa and enjoyed an open-air yoga class at Jungle View. After a couple of nights in bustling Mirissa I took a one-hour taxi to quieter Tangalle, where I stayed in the calm oasis of Hidden Garden amongst the palms and the lagoon. I had a blissful time going between different beaches and the pool, trying delicious fresh fruit juice and getting through lots of books. It did take a little bit of time to adjust to a slower pace and to being solo after being on a fast-paced action-packed group tour! Leisurely al-fresco breakfasts were such a delightful way to start the day, and I went to an onsite yoga class at Hidden Garden too. It ended up being a 1-1 class which was a little intense but useful to get some specific feedback, and the teacher was a lovely German woman. It was her first time teaching in English which I would not have guessed! One day I took a tuk-tuk to Silent Beach which was definitely worthwhile, it was a beautiful large horseshoe-shaped bay lined with palms and fairly quiet. I walked all the way to the end to a café I’d saved on Google maps, The Lobster Pot (Unakuruwa). As with most beach cafés here, you can have a sunbed for free provided you buy some food or drink, and I had a delicious prawn curry for lunch.

Secret Root Spa, Mirissa

Hidden Garden, Tangalle

Silent Beach, Tangalle

After my time in Tangalle I headed back along the coast to Ahanghama, a small laid-back surfing town (not far from busier Weligama), and the final stop on my trip. I’d planned my itinerary for this final week in advance, as I wanted to make the most of my time and not worry about finding places to stay after the group tour. I had a fantastic brunch at The Kip, which is a very aesthetically pleasing small hotel and café that exudes effortless cool. I loved their tapas-style brunch concept (and would love to see this in Bristol!), you select which small plates you want using a pencil and a paper menu. I had a mini smoothie bowl, a watermelon salad and a piece of banana bread – delicious! I enjoyed some iced tea at the Mermaid Kitchen and sat sketching the lovely ocean view for a while. Lots of the cafés overhang on stilts above the water which I’ve not really seen before, it was lovely. During my stay in Ahanghama I also took a tuk-tuk to Secret Beach, where I was grateful to finally find a Sri Lankan beach without huge waves! I also had good food at Cactus and Canteen by Soul & Surf – Ahanghama is certainly not short of vibey places to eat!

The Kip, Ahanghama

Mermaid Kitchen, Ahanghama

I spent a final night in Negombo (returning to the lovely Ayubowan Guesthouse) before my flight home to the UK. What a trip! It was my first time travelling with a tour company so I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it was wonderful to have everything organised for you (and I may or may not have already booked another trip with the same company!). Special thanks must go to our lovely guide Dinesh, our driver Hemantha and our assistant Upul who all looked after us so well throughout the tour. I also felt safe as a solo traveller in the latter part of my trip along the south coast.

Secret Beach, Ahanghama

I would say that if you’re looking to come to Sri Lanka purely for the beaches, it’s great for some warmth and sunshine during the British winter, the food is cheap and a lot of people speak English. The downsides are the mosquitos (not too bad but you definitely need insect repellent), not being able to drink the tap water, and not being able to swim in the sea very easily. The waves are often quite choppy (which makes it a great surfing destination!) so this is worth bearing in mind. To make the most of visiting Sri Lanka you really need to also head inland. The route I travelled from Colombo into the highlands and then south is well trodden by visitors, and I can see that Sri Lanka will only become more popular. I’d love to return to explore the north of the island which is less developed (currently there’s not the infrastructure to suit group tours so you’d need to either be feeling adventurous or hire a private guide).

Polonnaruwa Ancient City

In terms of practicalities, Sri Lanka is 4 and a half hours ahead of the UK. It’s primarily a cash-based society with a closed currency, so from the UK you can only bring in 20,000 Sri Lankan rupees which was about £54 at the time I went. Avoid withdrawing cash at the airport – wait until you get to Negombo or Colombo, and use Google maps to help you find out which ATMs charge minimal or no withdrawal fees. I used the taxi service from Real Lanka holidays multiple times (including airport transfers), as they were reliable, easy to contact via Whatsapp, and offered good prices. Sri Lanka also has a unique plug socket so you’ll need a specialist adaptor for charging devices, though some places also have UK plug sockets. A decent first aid kit is worthwhile, and remember to buy bottled tap water.

Sri Lanka is truly a wonderful island destination to explore, with its vibrant mix of wildlife, culture and food, throughout its highlands, forests and coastlines. I hope you enjoyed reading about my trip, and I would love to know if you have any exciting adventures planned?

Alexa

P.S. If you enjoyed reading this, you may like to read Solo Trip to Porto and Vanlife Around the Isle of Skye.

Header photo: Yala National Park safari